New ZealandWellington, the capital city, is located in one of the most magnificent natural harbors in the world. The city is located between the sea and Mount Victoria, which is about 200 meters above sea level. The capital can be felt with full vitality along the rolling terrain. Despite experiencing this magnificent view at the Interislander Ferry Terminal, I couldn't help but think of my purpose here: I was preparing to embark on a nearly two-week Great Journeys New Zealand railway trip, which was the starting point of this adventure – on a boat that can accommodate 1,350 passengers without seeing the tracks or trains at all.
Great Journeys New Zealand, which was originally run by state-owned railway company KiwiRail, acquired the interislander service as early as 2008. Rather than building a railway tunnel under the Cook Strait, ferries are a cheaper and more convenient way to cross the North and South Islands. The scenery on this route is also even more spectacular: the voyage from Wellington to Picton is about 92 km and requires a trip across the Marlborough Sounds, the most incredible sea journey I have ever seen.
It was only after I got off the boat about 3 and a half hours later that the train was just a springboard for my next 11 days of journey, a means of transportation to lead me to countless magnificent views. I will use this railway to connect to other exciting modes of transportation, such as ferries, buses, speedboats, steamboats, small propellers and helicopters.
I participated in a tour planned by the Great Journeys, the travel department of the National Railway KiwiRail, which offers over ten high-end tours that combine five long-distance train routes in New Zealand with local activities. I chose the “Spectacular South Island” itinerary from Wellington to Queenstown, combining the two routes of “Coastal Pacific Pacific” and “Tranzalpine Alpine View”. The all-inclusive journey costs approximately NT$170,000 and includes accommodation, sightseeing and meals.
Although KiwiRail is not a luxury sleeper train, Great Journeys has launched a new Scenic Plus landscape carriage this year, giving travelers a brand new experience. These newly designed cabins are equipped with panoramic windows and the interior is luxurious. For example, lighting and furniture designed by Maori artists, as well as upgraded catering services, all adopt the concept of “from origin to dining table”. When the train arrives everywhere, passengers can taste locally produced ingredients and drinks, and have a deeper experience with the scenery along the way.
After so many years of traveling, I have always been resistant to long-distance train trips to a certain extent (actually this is the longest railway itinerary I have ever taken so far). Although it is indeed an irresistible romance to drive slowly through the window and watch the world unfold, for me, this way of travel always makes people feel a little distance – as if they are just passing by in a hurry, but they cannot really get into it, and there is even a hint of monotony.
As the train begins to drive, the ever-changing landscape of New Zealand's South Island makes me quickly realize that this journey will never be monotonous or feel closed and fearful. On this land that is only one-fifth of the size of Texas, USA, it has an incredibly diverse natural wonder—guaranteed for two hours, or even two consecutive days, the scenery will not be repeated.
On the first day of the train journey, I saw seals bathed in the sun outside Kaikoura's fishing village, and I could also glimpse the swarms of Hechthrip dolphins in the distance. Hundreds of lively dolphins show off their stunts and keep leaping happily from the water. Less than 24 hours later, I sat in the same seat and admired the dry brown hilly area around Christchurch. After I briefly took a city food tour led by Maori, the train continued to climb the Vietnamese Alps. The winding rails pass through some of New Zealand's highest mountains and peak at the small town of Arthur's Pass before descending into the temperate rainforest on the west coast. After a night at the rainforest resort Te Waonui, we continued along a winding bus route, passing volcanic rock pillars, coastal glaciers and alpine waterfalls, and finally arrived at Queenstown, a paradise for outdoor adventure lovers. The next day I embarked on a journey to Milford Sound to enjoy this natural landscape known as New Zealand's most classic.
